I grew up eating ALOT of fried fish. My people are Southern, fish was plentiful and cheap, and frying made a modest mess of catfish go a little further in a hungry family. While I’m more likely to lightly saute or bake fish these days, sometimes, it’s nice to indulge in the crispy-goodness that only frying can provide.
I prefer peanut oil for frying, but I will also use canola. In my opinion, you get better “color” and flavor with the peanut oil. I’m convinced it’s the saturated fats :). Peanut oil is more expensive, so I tend to only buy it when I know I’m going to use it and use it all (I had some go rancid which just chaps me). I always have canola around as a neutral baking and salad oil, so I’m willing sacrifice some color for the cost and convenience factor. I don’t use corn oil — I think it gives an off flavor. Melted Crisco is divine for fried chicken, but again, I just don’t use enough of it in other venues to keep it around much.
So I had some leftover corn tortillas in the fridge and was thinking about tacos. It was still pretty hot, so I was thinking fish over the usual beef. I have had lovely fish tacos with grilled fish, but you know, I wanted the fried kind. I didn’t want to go with a traditional Southern cornmeal batter — I wanted something lighter — so went with a tempura-style batter instead. My secret — use a lemon-lime seltzer rather than plain seltzer or club soda. Adds that little “something something” without overpowering the clean fresh flavor of the fish.
Serve this tempura-style fried fish in crispy corn taco shells with plain greek yogurt and pickled shallots and jalapeno. Cilantro leaves would be a nice garnish as well. And hard to go wrong with an accompanying margarita.
Tempura-Style Battered Fish
Canola oil
3/4 to 1 pound filet of firm white fish, like cod
Kosher salt
Fresh ground black pepper
1/2 cup PLUS 1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup lemon-lime seltzer
Pour about 1″ of canola oil into a heavy-bottomed skilled and heat. I set my electric burner just past medium (sorry — didn’t take the oil temperature — but you are aiming for about 350 or so).
Choose a filet that is fairly uniform in thickness – if necessary, cut away the thinner portion near the tail and use for another dish. Salt and pepper the filet on both side, using your fingers to lightly press the seasoning into the fish. Cut the fish into “fingers” roughly the width of the filet’s thickness.
Put 1/2 cup of flour in a shallow dish. This is Dredge Station #1.
Whisk together 1 cup of flour and the baking powder in a medium bowl. Whisk in the seltzer water until the batter is smooth. This is Dredge Station #2.
Once you know your oil is hot — drop a little batter in there and see if it sizzles — take each seasoned fish piece and dredge in the flour, ensuring ALL sides get a light coating of flour. Gently shake off the excess. Then, take each piece and run through the batter, ensuring no dry flour is showing. IMMEDIATELY place the battered piece into the hot oil. Move quickly — you want to get four or five pieces in the oil so they can all come out at the same time. Do NOT overcrowd the pan. Cook until golden brown on the first side, flip over, then cook until golden brown on the second side. Remove to drain on a paper towels. Salt lightly if desired. Continue with small batches until all of the pieces are fried off.
Quick Pickled Shallots and Jalapeno
1 large-ish shallot, sliced thin
1 large-ish jalepeno, sliced thin, most of the seeds and membrane discarded
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup water
1 tablespoon sugar
1 teaspoon salt
Combine the vinegar, water, sugar, and salt in a microwave-safe container (I used my trusty 2-cup Pyrex measuring cup). Bring to a boil — will take just a minute or two. Stir to ensure all the sugar and salt is dissolved — but BE CAREFUL — this is HOT! Carefully transfer the shallots and jalepeno to the brine. Let set at room temperature until cool. Use immediately or refrigerate up to a week (my educated guess — discard if it looks or smell funky — this brine isn’t as acidic or salty as some).